All about cognac!

There is no other more renowned drink among other alcohol drinks than cognac, which takes specific place thanks to its high flavouring value. It is a strong alcohol drink of amber-golden color, having complex aroma with vanilla hue and round harmonious taste, gained by double distilling of dry wine with the following ageing in oak barrels.

The word “cognac” may probably be seen as the most popular in the world. One says that its definition is familiar even to Eskimos!!! It is known that already in the 18th century cognac was exported not only to Scandinavia, Russia, but also to Louisiana, Guiana, as well as to Asia andFar East. A brilliant cognac popularizer that time was England, thanks to particular attachment of its people to this drink.

Nowadays cognac successfully conquers the world. From 200 mln bottles of this drink, produced yearly, 95 % goes for export. The main world consumers are USA, England, Germany, andJapan. It’s worth mentioning, that to Asia goes only highly qualified drink. For example, inJapan the sale of cognac of high quality stands at 99 % from the total volume of its realization in this country. Japanese has been recently more and more tending to consume the oldest, what means the most expensive cognacs.

Cognac is also popular in our country, where it is held in special respect. Sich a respect appeared mainly due to considerable success gained in USSR in producing drinks of “cognac” type.

HOW COGNAC WAS INVENTED

The start of wine-growing (viticulture) in the area of modern cognac production refers to the last quarter of the 3rd century, when Rome emperor Probus allowed Gauls to have vineyards and to be engaged in wine-making, which was widespread only in some cities.

In the 12th century, thanks to Guillaume X duke Gaienn and count Poitiers, there was created a big vineyard around La Roshelle, named Poitou Vineyard. The next century wine was produced from its grape, supplied to countries situated on the Coast of Northern Sea, shipped by Hollandand Scandinavian ships.

One of boathouses, based in Charante watershed, differed from others by its ancient history (in the 11th century there were salt stocks) and the quality of vineyards. It was called – Cognac. In the second half of 16th century Holland ships came here for famous wine Champagne and Borderi.

In the 16th century local wine-growers started producing such a quantity of wine that it turned out not so easy to sell it off. The quality of drink had dropped. Low-alcohol and sauer drinks could not sustain long sea transportation.

They were perishing an route and in wine-sellers’ basements. Again, transporting in barrels was laborious and economically non-profitable. Approximately in 1630 appeared there appeared the idea of applying the process of distilling in large scale, which was known that time to alchemists and pharmacists, who were practicing it in small quantities mainly for getting spirit for medical means.

In 1641 French skilled-craftsmen from Charante department invented a special distilling apparatus for getting cognac spirit, which was the main raw material when producing cognac. By distilling from wine they started to get absolutely new drink. It could be transported anyplace and it did not perish an route.

By the end of the 17th century Holland and English sellers had started to take out usual alcohol drink without any additives, less volume and less expensive. This product, deluted with water, called “brandewijn”.

There are at least two versions of cognac origin. According to the first one, in the first half of the 16th  century at the wedding celebration of French King Henry II with Catherine de Médicis Italian ambassador among other presents gave vine brandy to the young couple.

According to another version, cognac production came into existence in south-west areas ofFrance more than 300 years ago. As any outstanding product, cognac’s origin is bound up with legendary character. It concerns native of Bordeaux city, Chevalier de la Croix-Maron. After leaving soldiery he settled near Segonzac and started to do his favorite business – spirit distilling. Here he became so much conceive to low-percentage spirit of one-time distilling, that he became obsessed by hallucinations. Once at night he saw a horrible dream: devil, in order to take out his soul, threw him into boiling water. He didn’t achieve any result and ordered to repeat the operation, but at that exact moment, chevalier woke up. Being impressed by the dream, Croix-Maron immediately went to his distilling apparatus, having said to himself, that if devil thought to get the man’s soul after the second boiling, it means, that he could try to take the soul out  from his wine by the second distilling.

The short and the long of it, by the end of the 17th century cognac started to be produced inFrance  in Cognac city (Charante department), wherefrom this drink got its name.Long ageing was invented in the following way. In 1701 the war between France and England for Spanish inheritance burst out. France was blocked by English navy, which broke the transportation of cognac spirits to England. A considerable part of spirit was ageing in oak barrels. It was noticed, that in the result of long spirit ageing in oak barrels, its taste quality considerably improved. Then sellers started deliberately ageing cognac in barrels for a long time as well as improving technology of blending the drink.

That time cognac was transported exclusively in barrels and the name of producer was left unknown to consumer. Only by 1860 cognac started to be supplied in original bottles with labels. It entailed creation of enterprises on producing bottles, crates, corks and even printing establishments.

Nowadays cognac trade is on the high level. France remains universally recognized cognac classic producing, country its experience is being thoroughly studied and used in many countries in the world.

WHERE COGNAC IS PRODUCED

To approve the priority of creating cognac, a special decree was issued on 1st January 1909 inFrance. According to this decree there were established borders of the territory, production of which as vine brandy has the right to be called cognac. This territory occupies departments Maritime Charante and Charante, which got their names from small quiet river Charante running through them.

The territory is situated on the very west of France, stretching from Gironde and Ray of Biscay deep into the country for 200 km. In the very center of cognac production area city Cognac is situated, which gave the name to this famous drink. Among other famous cities of the region there are port and stronghold La-Rochelle and Angouleme.

The main distinction of this area, apart from climate, extremely favorable for wine-growing, due to closeness of Atlantic, is unique chalky soils. The best of them are in the center of the area in Grande Champagne. From local grape they get the most tender, flavored and delicate cognacs as for their bouquet.

Southward, surrounding Grande Champagne with semicircle, there is Petite Champagne area. Here are being produced cognacs of very high quality, however not so elegant.

This particular areas has the right to place on labels of their cognac the name Fine Champagne, provided, however, that in the mixture there will be not less drink from Grande Champagnethan a half.

Cognacs of Borderi area, situated to the North from Grande Champagne, on the right side of river Charante, are full of taste and quite delicate, however, they have less expressed aroma. Three other areas – Bois Ordinaires, Fins Bois, Bons Bois (bois-“forest”) are quite woody, what reflected on their names. Local cognacs are less refined, vine is mainly used for production of cheap drinks. Young cognac materials are bought by large companies for implementing as blended material.

According to existing legislation about controlled names according to their origin, strong drinks from spirit, got by distilling of grape wines, but being produced in other areas of France and other countries cannot be launched under the name “cognac”. In different countries drinks of cognac type are called in different ways: armagnac,  viniak, brandy.

 HOW THE MARVELLOUS DRINK IS GOT

The technology of cognac production has been considerably improved over the last centuries, but the core remained the same. From choice descriptions of white vine (Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Folle-Blanche saint-Emilion), gathered in October by machines in Charante area is pressed juice by special presses.

Juice fermentation takes place during about 3-4 weeks after vine gathering. As a result, young dry wine Blanc de Blanc is got.

Now starts the most important stage of cognac production – the first distilling. It is being made already the next after harvest gathering year, but only till 31 March. The first, as well as the second distilling is being made in a special distilling apparatus, so called “alembic charentais”. Traditionally it is produced from copper, as this metal is wine acids influence resistant. Distilling of 9 litres of wine gives about 1 litre of cognac spirit, quite ordinary as for the color and turbid. The initial distillate called “tetes” and the final – “guenes” is not used, but poured out, since they contain many undesirable aromas.

The second distilling demands special thoroughness and mastery. It is called “bonne chaaffe”, what means “kind heating”. During 12 hours spirit-raw material is being slowly and carefully once more distilled. As during the first distilling, only one “heart” is kept. Only this alcoholic solutionfrom 69 to 72 % will be further aged.

The next important stage is cognac ageing. It’s believed, that it is the determinative in gaining the highest level of quality by the drink.

Cognac is being aged in 350-litre barrels from 3 to 25 years and more. Material, the barrels are made of, is very significant. Cognacs contain about 500 components and in very old – over 2000. All of them go to spirit through oak. Barrels production itself is science. They are made ofLimousin forests’ oaks, growing 150 km to the East from Cognac city and also of oak, growing in Tronse forest. Barrels are made without any nail. It’s considered, the older the barrel, the more valuable it is. Such an antique is worth its weight in gold, it is thoroughly protected and even spiders are specially breeded to braid barrels with web to protect them from pests.

After some decades of exploitation the upper layer of wood inside the barrel reaches the end of its service and it’s been scraped off (1-2 mm), after that the barrel again helps a new drink to be born. The cognac’s expiration date depends on numerous factors and may reach 100 years. When storing, the drink evaporates with speed of 2-4 % per year and it also loses its percentage up to 40 degrees.

Finally, when on expert-taster opinion spirit is already matured, probably the most complicated process starts – blending, i. e. mixing cognac spirits of various ageing, different harvests, since one vine harvest cannot add to cognac diverse of taste and aromas.

First, cognacs of approximately the same age, from 1 to 3 years, but from different vineyards of Charante are usually mixed. This type is called “coupe premiere”. Then goes the stage of different age cognacs’ (coupe mere) blending and finally, the last stage (coupe finale) – the final mixing for giving all the planned characteristics to the drink.

In process termination the spirit content in cognac lower up to 40 %, adding distilled water and a certain dose of caramel to give more rich color to the drink. This operation is fully finished and meets consumers’ belief, who think, that the darker cognac, the older it is.

However this opinion is absolutely false, since spirit drink, spent 40 years in not enough burnt barrel, gets amber color and becomes almost light. 

CLASSIFICATION OF DRINK (BNIC) 

Bureau National Interprofessionell du Cognac implemented strict standards and monitoring system of cognac spirits’ age. Choosing French cognac, it is necessary to know that, for example, "Napoleon" - no name, but a brand. It means that each component of blending has ageing not less than 6 years starting from 1 o’clock a.m. on 1 April, following the official distillation termination of wine of the given harvest. 

The quality of cognac is determined by a special symbol on the label. The following inscriptions refer to different ageing of the drinks sold: 

V.S. (Very Special) or Trois Etoiles ( "three star") - cognacs with ageing in a barrel not less than 2.5 years; 

V.S.O.P. (Very Superior Old Pale), V.O. (Very Old), Reserve - cognacs with ageing in a barrel not less than 4 years; 

V.V.S.O.P. (Very-Very Superior Old Pale), Grande Reserve - cognacs with ageing in a barrel not less than 5 years; 

X.O. (Extra Old), Napoleon, Extra, Hors d'age, Tres Vieux, Vieille Reserve - cognacs with ageing in barrels for 6 years. 

Classification of cognacs with ageing more than 6 years is prohibited. This is due to the fact that mixing of alcoholic drinks, which is being regular practice, does not allow controlling the process. But, on the other hand, such restrictions make the task more complicated for consumer, since behind the signature , for example, "XO", may be hidden as 8-9 years, and also more than 20-year-old cognac. It is worth being stressed that not all fans and experts, as well as specialists of cognac production share the view that the older the cognac, the better it is.

HOW COGNAC IS CONSUMED 

Cognac - the drink, which is usually served after the second course, before serving coffee or tea, after finishing lunch or dinner. You cannot feel the taste and bouquet of cognac if drinking it during the meal. Cognac is not usually cooled as vodka. It is served at room temperature of 16 degrees or heated in warm palms in cognac glass with capacity of 25 cub. sm with a shape of a barrel. Glass is made of a thin transparent white glass, so that golden color of cognac could be well seen, has a low leg and narrows to the top of the wall that makes it easier to keep aroma of the drink. A glass of ball shape is also used, known in some countries "inhaler”, with capacity of 100-125 cub. sm They pour 25 cub. sm with cognac. 

Cognac is drunk without a hurry, in a quiet and modest atmosphere, with congenial people. This is a special drink, not intended, as different with champagne, for crowded and noisy anniversaries, parties and celebrations. 

If you are offered a few brands, for the most complete perception of all cognac’s taste advantages you should rinse your mouth with warm tea after testing each pattern. There is a special etiquette of tasting cognac. It is usually poured 15-20 cub sm. of the drink. The optimum temperature for tasting is 20-25 degrees. So, before tasting the cognac must be kept in the glass for about 10 minutes. 

Having enjoyed the wide range of cognac flavor, the drink is tasted with small swallows, feeling, how well the taste is distributed in the mouth, making an effect of "peacock tail" (“quene de paon"), as if it is spread in the mouth. 

For preparation of mixed drinks ordinary cognac is usually used. It is the most successfully combined with milk, cream, ice cream, coffee, tea, orange and lemon juices, syrups and liqueurs, nonalcoholic carbonated drinks. 

Cognac does not go with a snack. At worst, it may be eaten by apple, but better - chocolate. It is not recommended to snack the cognac with grape in order to avoid undesirable consequences. Not bad, without hurrying, slowly drinking cognac and talking to friends, to have an opportunity of enjoying a cup of black coffee.